Wine Of The Week: Domaine Laroche Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes Chablis Premier Cru
Expect notes of citrus, saffron, and almond with a shimmering minerality.
In the center of Chablis lies a former monastery, first erected in the 9th century in honor of St. Martin. For centuries, L’Obédiencerie made wine—St. Martin is the patron saint of Chablis, of course. In 1985, winemaker Michel Laroche bought the property and took over the practice in an effort to ascend the wines to further greatness.
If you’re in the area, the building itself, Obédiencerie of Chablis, is fascinating—the relics of St. Martin, also the patron saint of generosity, was hidden within the cellars and other remnants of winemaking history. “Vieilles Vignes” is a nod to the ancient vines on the property, with some dating back to the 1950s. (Old vines tend to offer more elegance and precision.)
The current winemaker, Romain Chevrolat, cut his teeth in the Rhone Valley at Guigal and stints at Chateau LaTour and Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. At his and Laroche’s hand, the winery explores all the Crus of Chablis–or micro-regions designated by the government to hold exemplary quality—but Les Vaillons is a particular favorite of mine. It’s sunny and generous, but precise with lots of tension that draws in the drinkers. Expect notes of citrus, saffron, and almond with a shimmering minerality. $100
Kate Dingwall is a WSET-trained sommelier and spirits writer. Her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.
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