Wines from the Douro Valley, a wonderfully green and perilously steep region that flows from the Northern Portuguese coast inland, are very particular. Whites, or Vinho Verde, are typically green and almost fizzy with acidity. Reds are dark and dense, mature and highly ageable. The best of the grapes are often transformed into white, tawny, or late-bottled vintage ports. That’s just the way it has always been done here.
Winemaker Luis Seabra sees the valley a little differently. Instead of sourcing the best grapes from around the valley, for his Xisto Cru line he zeroes in on specific vineyards and makes the best wine for that place. An avid soil research and viticulturist, he’s picky about the vineyards he chooses. Often, he opts for steep, old vineyards — not easy to work with, that’s for sure, but they give him grapes with character. His wines, equally, are full of personality and precision.
The Xistu Cru Branco is a personal favorite—it comes from some of the highest and oldest vineyards in all of the Douro. Made from a blend of Codega, Gouveio, and Viosinho Dozelino Branco (say that three times fast), it’s mineral-rich and pure, with bright acidity and a slightly creamy finish. Elegant and ethereal, it pairs well with fill-the-table summer feasts. $85
Kate Dingwall is a WSET-trained sommelier and spirits writer. Her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.