Why Bronze Watches Are Ticking Up In Popularity
The best bronze timepieces offer bold looks and weathered patinas over time.
If it’s a striking, instantly recognizable watch with depth and personality that you crave, consider going for the bronze. The brawny metal has strong ties to nautical pursuits including diving, and watch experts note a growing interest in bronze timepieces in recent years. “Bronze has always had a presence in watchmaking, with its popularity fluctuating over time,” said Luminox Global Product Director Pierrick Marcoux, noting that bronze combines a sense of utility with versatile style. Bronze watches, which famously develop their own unique patina, are a true marker of individuality. But performance also counts, said Joshua Ganjei, CEO of luxury watch resale site European Watch Company, noting that companies like Tudor tend to own the space.
“Companies tend to use bronze to make dive watches, a category that is overflowing with options made of steel, gold, titanium, and a whole host of other materials, meaning that there is a lot of competition,” Ganjei said. “Bronze also develops a distinctive patina giving cases a very weathered look that is not necessarily for everyone.” While a slew of new releases use bronze, the category is still a niche one on the secondary market, said Eugene Tutunikov, CEO of luxury watch resale site SwissWatchExpo.”When someone does go for a bronze watch — especially a Tudor, Panerai, or Bell & Ross — it’s usually because they love the bold, rugged aesthetic and the story that comes with the patina process,” Tutunikov said. He added that “well-maintained” Tudor or Panerai watches still command solid resale prices.
And while the SwissWatchExpo stock of bronze watches remains quite small, the impact of a carefully crafted bronze beauty is undeniable. “It’s not for everyone, but for those who love it, it’s a conversation starter every time they wear it,” Tutunikov said. To add a dash of panache and eye-catching style to your wrist game rotation, opt for one of our favorite bronze timepieces below.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical in Bronze
Hamilton field watches are the stuff of legend when it comes to toughness and pedigree, and in this instance, the iconic American watchmaker notes that the “original soldier’s watch gets an original upgrade with Hamilton’s first-ever bronze case.” Sized in retro fashion at 38mm, this watch boasts a hand-wound movement and a sturdy case build, with the chops to develop its own unique patina over time. A bonus? It’s relatively affordable at just under $900. $895
Tudor Black Bay 58 Bronze
If ever there were a watchmaker laying claim to a specific material in terms of watch design, it very well might be Tudor. “Tudor makes more bronze watches than anyone else right now in a few different styles and case sizes,” said Ganjei of European Watch Company, pointing to the success of the Black Bay 58 Bronze, which he says is “one of the most accessible ways to get into a bronze watch today.” The style will of course develop its own patina, somewhere between refined and rugged. $5,025
Shinola Bronze Monster 43mm Automatic
Shinola’s Monster line of watches lives up to its billing, and then some. These sturdy designs draw on a range of inspiration (in this case, rumrunners navigating the Prohibition-era waters of Lake Michigan). The Bronze Monster is an exceptional timepiece in matters of form and function, featuring an SW200-1 automatic movement and a 38-hour power reserve. And while the watch happens to looks debonair on a leather strap, an accompanying deep olive green fabric strap adds another hit of bronze hardware to a standout timepiece. $1,850
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT 40mm Bronze Anthracite
The 1960s have proven a wellspring of style inspiration over the years, and watches are no exception. Independent Swiss watchmaker Norqain mined the decade to deliver the fourth and final timepiece in its Freedom 60 series, this one boasting GMT functionality, an eye-catching two-tone interior 24-hour ring and a whopping 70-hour power reserve. Naturally, the star of the show is the sunray-finished, anthracite bronze dial. The ‘Norqain’ nameplate on the side of the case (which can be customized) is also an appreciated finishing touch. $4,490
Bremont Terra Nova 42.5mm Chronograph in Bronze
Bremont just debuted three new bronze watches, each meticulously designed and tested to rigorous standards by the famed British tool watch manufacturer. The chronograph might be the best of the bunch, although each are impressive in their own right. As the watchmaker says, “the unique properties of the bronze alloy will transform each of the three new Terra Nova Bronze iterations into highly personal timepieces,” while the option to select from a caramel or dark green gradient dial is a further distinctive touch. $6,150
Luminox Automatic Sport Timer Bronze
Luminox, makers of some of the most hard-wearing watches on the planet (ones tested and approved by the likes of Navy SEALs, no less) looked to the heritage and durability of bronze for its latest release, with pleasing results. This release “blends the brand’s signature rugged functionality with a refined, sophisticated material,” Marcoux said. Of this collector’s piece, Marcoux said the company was drawn to the corrosion resistance of the material, as well as the chance to blend “toughness with luxury” in this handsome timepiece. $1,745
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver in Green Bronze
Ever purveyors of the unusual and the unexpected, with designs that lean heavily on engineering and old-school aircraft dashboards, it almost makes perfect sense that Bell & Ross delivers an exceptional tool watch in undeniably cool bronze. Of the top producers of bronze watches, Bell & Ross “does some striking bronze designs, particularly in their aviation-inspired pieces,” Tutunikov said. This one manages to be just a touch flashy, but certainly daring in every way. $3,875
Panerai Submersible Bronzo
What is it about bronze watches that conjures up the spirit of adventure? Is it the longstanding use of bronze in seafaring pursuits, from diving to shipbuilding? Perhaps, and it’s a history that Italian luxury watchmaker Panerai leans into wholeheartedly. “Panerai, with its nautical heritage, really owns the bronze space with the Luminor Submersible Bronzo, which has a serious cult following,” said Tutunikov of SwissWatchExpo. “If you’re looking at bronze, Tudor, Panerai, and Bell & Ross are the names that come up most often.” $18,600
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