This 5-Star Mexican Resort Boasts Cabo’s Hottest New Restaurant
The iconic One&Only Palmilla’s new Japanese eatery from chef Hiroki Arai is already on track for a Michelin star.
Cabo’s One&Only Palmilla is justifiably one of the most coveted beach-resort reservations, not only in Mexico, but the whole world. The most historically important five-star retreat in Baja California, it’s been popular with celebrities and jet-setters since the property’s original incarnation in 1956, when John Wayne was a frequent guest. Now celebrating its 20th anniversary as a One&Only under the ownership of Kerzner International, it’s popular with boldface names like Rihanna, Jennifer Aniston, Jimmy Kimmel, Emily Blunt and Rebel Wilson.
The property, sited where the azure Sea of Cortez and San Jose del Cabo bay converge, is already home to a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant, one of Baja California’s best; and as part of the anniversary upgrades and activations, it has just opened Hoshi, an intimate 28-seat omakase dining experience nestled within the resort’s historic bell tower that’s rapidly gaining fans and is already on track for a Michelin star.
Helmed by world-class Chef Hiroki Arai, the airy, light-filled minimalist interior betokens the laser-like focus on the quality of the Japanese fare being served. Hoshi translates to “star,” and outdoors is brought in to the tranquil aerie with the clever use of an undulating pendant light that reflects the sea just steps away. As Chef Arai says, the seasonal dishes “are prepared to highlight their natural flavors. Simplicity.”
The multi-course tasting menu takes advantage of locally-sourced seafood as well as overnight-delivered sushi and sashimi from Japan’s famous seafood markets. That includes the traditional raw-fish offerings and distinct tempuras. Try the Baja Chocolata Clam with yuzu kosho, scallop tartar, and A5 Wagyu beef with local variations of salts from around the world.
Arai puts to use, and favors, the abundance of bluefin tuna from the Sea of Cortez, as well as skipjack and yellowfin. This may be a subtle endeavor, but there is theater in watching the chefs slice nigiri and prepare tempura, then move on to the sumptuous offerings on the robata grill. Says Arai, “Our culinary philosophy centers around the essence of taste, rather than the decoration.”
There’s also good news for golfers at the prized property, which is home to a truly world-class spa, boasts one of Baja’s only swimmable beaches and is known for epic whale-watching. Palmilla has long been a sought-after spot for practitioners of the sport thanks to its championship 27-hole Jack Nicklaus golf course. The links are now undergoing extensive updates as the golf facilities transition to a resort-private club exclusive to members and One&Only Palmilla guests.
Members and hotel guests can “look forward to enhanced golf amenities, exclusive events, and access to the new private clubhouse featuring innovative dining, wellness, and retail offerings,” the property promises. This will no doubt attract even more sports-world celebrities as well, as Palmilla has already played host to the likes of Carlos Alcaraz, Frances Tiafoe, Erik Van Rooyen, and Tyson McGuffin, among others.
On the refreshment and nutrition front, in addition to Hoshi and Jean-Georges’ Seared, the resort is home to casual spots Suviche, Breeze, Agua, and the al fresco Pelican Beach Grill. Seared is essentially an epicurean steak house–surf-and-turf, with visually-captivating wine cellars and meat cellar. There are 15 cuts on offer in all, from Wagyu to Kobe, and more traditional ribeyes and tenderloins as well as black-truffled infused beef Carpaccio.
Even if you’re usually not a foie gras person, Jean Georges’ seared take with ginger and caramelized mango is a totally decadent must-try, sweet and savory with a little kick. On the briny front, try the spiny lobsters, as well as chilled crustaceans, and shareable whole red snapper. You’ll also want to be sure and reserve one of the outdoor, seaside tables at Agua which is one of the most beautiful plein air dining spots you’ll find on this coast, with an equally alluring menu to match.
Los Cabos has gotten quite built up in recent decades, and some of the newer resorts are truly enormous in scale, while One&Only Palmilla feels more intimate and authentic to its Mexican heritage, with a hidden-away vibe thanks to its spacious, palm-tree suffused grounds. The clay-shingle rooftops and hacienda-style architecture mimes its original turn-of-the-century chapel.
Interiors feature an abundance of handcrafted decor elements, and the suites are supremely comfortable without feeling overdecorated. In addition to luxury suites the resort has a portfolio of private villas, designed blend elegance and seclusion “in equal measure.” With an “ideal balance of calm and entertainment spaces, the finest amenities, and the unrivaled service of an expert host who makes everything come together,” this is the top accommodation pick for celebrities, socialites and VIPs galore.
Surfing is also a big draw at the property, which features a Tropicsurf center located on-site; tote your board atop the resort’s custom G-Wagen and you’ll know that this is one of the more luxurious surfing experiences you’ll find on this coast. “There are sand bar beach breaks, short and punchy reef breaks, and long rolling point breaks,” Tropicsurf notes, and their resident guides can help you have an epic day on the waves.
Following devastating hurricanes that struck the area in 2015, Kerzner invested many millions in not only restoring the property to its five-star status but upgrading and improving along the way. More enhancements have come with the advent of the 20th anniversary, and further investment is coming up in the form of a new beach club that’s currently in the planning stages.
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